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La Reine Margot - history and film

8/24/2018

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The 1994 film La Reine Margot (Queen Margot) is very artsy, very French, and bloody as a butcher shop.  It tells a "romantic" and fictionalized version of the events surrounding the St. Bartholomew's Day Massacre in France in 1572, 446 years ago today.  It's compelling-- once I was watching it while sewing, and I sewed right over my finger!  (Don't watch movies while sewing unless you've seen them a bunch of times and don't need to pay too much attention.)  Today, I want to talk briefly of the history of the massacre and review the movie.  Tomorrow, I'll highlight the movie's costuming choices, especially the lace. 

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Hussifs

8/13/2018

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Men going to sea or joining the military miss women... for so many reasons.  But when they wear a hole in their socks or tear their pants, it's the "feminine" art of mending that they most require!  And, since there are no women about, the men have to learn a little handwork.  I remember listening to my uncle, a US marine (there's no such thing as a former marine), tell me with pride how he learned to keep his clothes nice, how he wouldn't trust his wife to properly launder his uniforms, and how every stray thread had to be clipped close to the fabric in a procedure called "Irish pennanting". 
Picture
Sewing kit, or hussif, belonged to NZ41868 Flying Officer Derek Vaughan Bullock, 218 Squadron, Bomber Command, WW2. Auckland Museum [CC BY 4.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

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Colbertism and French Needlelace

3/12/2018

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Today an informative post about the development of French needlelaces!  As I previously defined it, needlelace is lace made by embroidering with a needle rather than braiding with bobbins or crocheting or knitting.  During the reign of Louis XIV (the Sun King), the French government made a deliberate investment in lacemaking, as part of a wide-ranging plan to become Europe's center for luxury goods, fashion, and taste.  They had stiff competition in all those fields: the Italians and Dutch were already Europe's sourcebook and marketplace for luxury goods.  In particular, as relates to lace, the bobbin laces of the Netherlands were fantastically expensive and popular.  But the needlelace of Italy was also prestigious;  Italy developed needlelace from its history of drawn thread work and reticella, and by the 1600's the Italian gros point de Venise, which was sculptural and meant to look like carved ivory, was the needlelace to beat.   The French set out to beat it. 

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Why Are Women Always Right?

1/18/2018

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Right-over-left, that is.  In the Western world, women's garments traditionally close right-over-left, while men's close left-over-right.  As an example, the Moss Brothers jacket I showed you on Monday is a women's jacket because of the right-over-left closure (as well as the princess seams giving room for the bosom, and the flared hips with slanting pockets for style).  That's why I was surprised to find no womenswear on their company website! 

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HSM 2017 October - Robe de style

10/2/2017

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Picture
Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Norman W. Wassman, 1956
Well it's officially been ages since I did a Historical Sew Monthly challenge, but the project I now contemplate qualifies for October's challenge: Out of Your Comfort Zone!  In this case, the new skill or technique I want to try relates to a foundation garment. 

Years ago I watched a movie set in Ireland, between the two World Wars.  The main character is a girl from an English family living in Ireland as landed gentry; her family has been there for generations and think of themselves as locals, but don't recognize their privilege or how their neighbors resent them.  Anyway, the clueless girl loves an Irishman who is dead set on getting the English out of Ireland.  He has feelings for her, but hates himself for them because he's supposed to hate "her kind". 
Meanwhile, she is loved by an English soldier.  Things get tragic.  Honestly, I didn't find it all that interesting, despite it having such dramatic elements.  Despite all the politics, love triangles, and bloodshed, the part I remember best was the rather odd garment worn by the young lady to a ball... a flat-chested boxy bodice with large skirt poofing out from the hips.  I thought it was very unflattering. 

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Glengarry Cap, take 2!

9/11/2017

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Passing the Scottish Country Shop one day, I went in to see if I could examine a Glengarry cap in person.  Alas, I didn't have much time before they closed, but based on what I saw there, I have made some alterations to my pattern.  For instance, it's clear from the tartan caps like this that the base of the pattern is not a straight line, but a curve.  If you turned the cap so that grain and cross-grain are a plus sign (look at the plaid), the back of the hat is hanging down.  Another thing which is clear when I contrast my finished hat with the picture at the top of the post is that I should not have sewn around the curve at the bottom of the hat... the authentic hat is not sewn around the curve, so the curved edges flair open around the head when worn, and fold neatly when not worn.   Here's a little sketch of the revised shapes:
Picture

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Underbust Corset

5/22/2017

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I made this underbust corset in April, 2014, based on Jacci Jaye's Corset Pattern #1, over on BurdaStyle.  I hand-sewed the entire thing, and later reviewed the pattern.  I'll go into more detail in this post. 
Picture

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HSM 2017 January - 1850 nightcap

1/26/2017

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My favorite blogger and my inspiration in many things is Leimomi Oakes.  For years, she has done regular historical sewing challenges designed to help people get out of sewing ruts, finish UFOs (UnFinished Objects!), and learn more about historical sewing.  This is the first year I've participated.

Given my current scattered set of sewing goals, and how few of them are historical, I found January's challenge somewhat... challenging.  "January: Firsts & Lasts – Create either the first item in a new ensemble, or one last piece to put the final fillip on an outfit."  Thing is, I haven't been making ensembles lately.  But as I thought on it, I realized that I have been very interested in nightwear. 

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    Karen Roy

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