Salmon Striped Dress - update!

Here's an update on my salmon striped dress, an early experiment in pattern drafting and an entirely hand-sewn dress.  Previously, I had bemoaned my failure to get the neckline right on this pattern; the pull of my bra straps in the strap-catchers and the movement of my arms in the armscyes always drew the neckline in, and that created awkward bunching which I would have to fix by tugging the shoulders outward.  Part of the problem was the wide neckline which made the shoulder straps sit too close to the joint of my arm, and part of the problem was that I didn't interface or otherwise stabilize the neckline while sewing it, so it "grew". 

Recently, I realized that this dress was languishing unworn in my closet, even though I like it and always get compliments when I wear it.  So I fiddled with the neck and pinned out the excess into two outward-facing pleats that mimic the other pleats and darts.  I hand-sewed these pleats down, and the dress finally works! 

I also finally got pictures of myself wearing it (many thanks to a random and confused tourist whom I press-ganged into doing the job), so I can analyze the pattern a little more.  (I should subtitle this post "Finally!")

Here's the original dress on the hanger.  Notice the wide neckline, almost as wide as the waist?  There are two vertical darts taking the bodice in to the waistband, and two pleats in the skirt at the same points in the waistband. 

And below, here is me wearing the newly altered dress with two pleats in the neckline.  See the position of the shoulders and armscyes now in line with the shape of my body? 

Let me look a little closer at what works and what doesn't:

Front and back views of the altered dress.

FRONT

I like this slim silhouette on myself (though I love full skirts, I don't think I'm tall enough to pull them off very well).  I love the color and the fit. The pleats in the neck fixed several problems, but create pull lines under the arms.

BACK

The waistband dips down and the small of the back bags, signs that the bodice pattern is too long in the back.  All the folds are shaped like smiley-faces.  I think it could be fixed (on the pattern) by taking a horizontal fish-eye dart right out of the center back, maybe in line with the armpits. 

This is actually a perfect example of my changing standards as well as my changing skills.  By Ready-to-Wear standards, the dress fits fine.  I see people all the time with those smiley-faced creases, pull lines under the arms, et cetera.  Americans, clothed from cradle to grave in fast fashion, don't know what proper fit is.  But as I learn more about sewing, and experiment with making clothes, I find myself less satisfied with "almost" fits.  I want the dress to hang right, with no creases or pull marks.  I want the waistband to sit level all the way around, unless it's meant to dip as a design feature.  I look at this dress and see future, better dresses that will replace it.  But for now, it's back to being a staple in my wardrobe!