When I told my six year old niece I would make her a hat, and asked what color she wanted, she answered: "Teal and sparkly pink!"  Well, I found sparkly teal and pink, so I decided--close enough--and set out to make the hat with them. 

I picked up a Maw-Bell pattern from Fabric Depot a while back, during their warehouse sale.  It has a plaid skirt and hat in it, but I was just interested in the adorable hat.  As it turns out, it's a super simple pattern! 

A seamstress friend from my Steampunk days referred this bride to me back in November 2017, when she found her own plate too full.  G. came with dress pattern, her chosen fabric, and even a muslin made up by my friend.  I finished the dress for her by the new year, but am only posting now, after the wedding! 

The pattern is McCall's 9133, and it's view A that she wanted.  She chose electric blue satin for the dress, and white lace for the overdress with sleeves.  In particular, because she's a practical woman, she requested that the two layers be made entirely separate, so she could shorten the blue dress later and wear it to other events.  For notions, I bought a blue invisible zipper, white loops & buttons, and horsehair brain for the hem. 

My Elizabethan-inspired modern ensemble continues... not exactly apace.  The posts so far:
Elizabethan Inspiration
Blackwork Ruffle
Blackwork Partlet

Today, a post about stays.  I won't go into the history of stays, because so many other people have done so, and so well.  Instead, I'll focus on making my first pair of bodies.

Today I'll talk about the next stage of my modern Elizabethan ensemble!  I make a partlet and embroider it with Elizabethan-inspired blackwork, using modern embroidery floss and all-purpose thread, and my own designs.  This'll be a long post, encompassing the draping of the partlet pattern, sewing it, designing the embroidery pattern, and embroidering it. 

A note about pictures in this post: if you click a pic and it takes you to an enlarged version, it's my picture.  If you click it and it takes you to a Wikimedia Commons page, it's not mine, but I'm using it under a creative commons license or Fair Use clause.  Basically: the historical portraits are not mine; click them to see where they come from. 

Last time I made this shirt, I cut it in size 14 and found the fit perfect except for the bust darts, which were positioned too wide for my bust.  The busy print of the cotton sateen (left side of picture) conceals the darts (as does the fact that I wear a bib-apron at work!), and the shirt is a new favorite in my wardrobe.  However, I want to make it again, changing a few things to fine-tune the fit.  This time, I'm using the sheer striped fabric on the right. 

For my 1919 dress, I began by draping an idea on my dress form, then draping a pattern on my friend.  Next, I put a bunch of work into sewing the bodice.  So far, so thoughtful and meticulous. 

By contrast, the skirt is quickly applied, the waistband hurriedly top-stitched, and the finishing touches done at breakneck speed with my friend standing around in stockings and our ride waiting in the car! 

Which is to say that I finish just in time for the murder mystery evening...

Here are the materials I've gathered for the making of my friend's 1919 dress.  In the top row, from left to right, we have the sheer white fabric, the blue dress fabric, the lining fabric, some flesh-colored lightweight knit (lingerie fabric), the pattern pieces and a scrap of lace.  The bottom row is the lace from my friend's mom's wedding dress.  All my stash fabrics are pre-washed, so there's never anything between me and sudden sewing inspiration. 

For two reasons, I'd like to document a basic, sew from a pattern project.  First, because I haven't shown the whole process here before, and someone might be interested.  Second, I am trying to keep better track of my time as I work. 

Since I've recently started a new job with a dress code requiring sleeves, I shall make myself some long-sleeved shirts!