Elizabethan Inspiration

Do you ever watch historical movies and wish we dressed like that today?  Or wished, as I do, that we dressed something like that... cherry-picking the aspects we like and eschewing the cumbersome or ugly parts?  Well, as the genius behind xkcd reminds us, we are grown-ups, and we can decide what that means.  And for me, it means I don't have to settle for cobbling together outfits from the remnants of only the last few decades.  I can make and wear whatever pleases me.  There's no law on the books that says I have to look like everyone else in my decade!  So I'd like to begin a sartorial art project... to look at my favorite times and places, and use them as inspiration for clothes that are thoroughly my own.  I'll start with the Elizabethan era, because it's got a ton of embroidery and handwork, and lots of layers.  I figure it'll be nice to wear in the winter, but I need to start in the spring if I want it to be done in time. 

WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THE ELIZABETHAN ERA

First, I should point out that my inspiration is mostly from portraits of the ruling classes and movies about Queen Elizabeth I, so there's a lot of ornamentation and luxury involved.  The basic garments would have been the same for the lower classes, but the upper classes during Elizabeth's reign evinced an extravagant material culture, as England gained in wealth and prestige through trade and piracy, and the courtiers competed to please the eye of the queen with their finest clothes.  Therefore their materials were richer. 

Blackwork Embroidery
Starting from Moorish (North African, Southern Spanish) sources, blackwork embroidery came to England with Catherine of Aragon, and was called "Spanish work" for a while.  It's a simple filled running stitch worked in geometric patterns, often representing flowers or plants.  Done well, it's just as pretty on the back as on the front. 

Blackwork is interesting and delicate, and I love the look of the variety of fillings.  I have never done such work before, but I think I'll like it once I get started.  There are historical patterns, as well as modern patterns I can use, to mimic the look of the age. 

Blackwork Embroidery, by PKM (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Elizabeth I, Phoenix Portrait, attributed to Nicholas Hilliard [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Pattern upon Pattern
I love the densely textured look of pattern on pattern... every layer being detailed in some way.  Look at the Queen's partlet (sheer linen with blackwork on it), emerging from a heavy brocade or embroidered dress, which itself frames the puffs of a chemise.  There are sheers overlaying opaque fabrics, and opaque fabrics parting to reveal sheers.  Lace, feathers, pearls...

You can see what I mean about the outfits being warm, though!  I wouldn't want to wear this in hot weather! 

Menswear
What can I say... I like doublets.  There's something appealing about wearing a fully closed, armor-like top.  This example, worn by the Queen's favorite Robert Dudley, has small tabs or crenelations at the shoulder and waist, but there are plenty of examples with larger tabs below the waist, flaring out over the poofy breeches. 

As for the poofy breeches, I think they'd make a pretty dorky garment for me, but would be a good inspiration for a skirt. 

In movies set around the time of the Spanish Armada's threat, Queen Elizabeth is seen wearing actual armor, or military-inspired female/male garments.  I wonder if she did in reality. 

Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester, Anglo-Netherlandish School, Unknown Artist [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

Separates
The layering that was the norm means that I can pick and choose layers which I like, and incorporate them into my regular outfits.  For instance, there was a kind of cape/partlet for women which covered the neck, shoulders, and top of the bosom (with room, of course, for the ruff to show), which I think makes a neat alternative to a shawl or scarf. 

Ruffs
Everyone loves to hate ruffs... those oversized, cumbersome, silly accoutrements that made courtiers look like dogs in cones-- except that I-- I do, actually, like them.  Maybe I don't need a cartwheel ruff, but something larger than a Rococco choker and smaller than the giant wings of the Rainbow Portrait would do fine!  I love the layers of lace and sheer linen, and I want to know how they pleated them like that. 

MY PLAN

Simplicity 3782: Elizabethan Costume, view B

No plan, per se.  I have a general idea that I want to make several top layers that can be used together, and a modern skirt (not floor length, no farthingale or bum-roll).  I know I want to have lace, black-work, and hues of red and gold with black details.  I have Simplicity 3782, and I like the neckline of the B view.

Working from stash, as I have resolved, I will use some fantastic wool-embroidered canvas as the red base of a doublet or something similar, and gold satin for lining and details. I also have gold ribbon and sequin trim, plenty of white linen-type fabrics for a shirt, fun buttons, beads, et cetera.  Plus, as previously mentioned, I have a ton of white fabric, so no shortage of stuff for underlayers. 

I envision a collage of artsy luxury.  Look for sporadic updates on this project over the next year!