Robes de Coeur
  • Blog
  • Quilting
  • Clothing
    • Menswear
    • Womenswear >
      • Self-Made Patterns
      • Commercial Patterns
    • Hats
    • Miscellany
  • About
  • Blog
  • Quilting
  • Clothing
    • Menswear
    • Womenswear >
      • Self-Made Patterns
      • Commercial Patterns
    • Hats
    • Miscellany
  • About

Elizabethan Inspiration

2/8/2018

1 Comment

 
Do you ever watch historical movies and wish we dressed like that today?  Or wished, as I do, that we dressed something like that... cherry-picking the aspects we like and eschewing the cumbersome or ugly parts?  Well, as the genius behind xkcd reminds us, we are grown-ups, and we can decide what that means.  And for me, it means I don't have to settle for cobbling together outfits from the remnants of only the last few decades.  I can make and wear whatever pleases me.  There's no law on the books that says I have to look like everyone else in my decade!  So I'd like to begin a sartorial art project... to look at my favorite times and places, and use them as inspiration for clothes that are thoroughly my own.  I'll start with the Elizabethan era, because it's got a ton of embroidery and handwork, and lots of layers.  I figure it'll be nice to wear in the winter, but I need to start in the spring if I want it to be done in time. 

WHAT I LIKE ABOUT THE ELIZABETHAN ERA

First, I should point out that my inspiration is mostly from portraits of the ruling classes and movies about Queen Elizabeth I, so there's a lot of ornamentation and luxury involved.  The basic garments would have been the same for the lower classes, but the upper classes during Elizabeth's reign evinced an extravagant material culture, as England gained in wealth and prestige through trade and piracy, and the courtiers competed to please the eye of the queen with their finest clothes.  Therefore their materials were richer. 
Blackwork Embroidery
Starting from Moorish (North African, Southern Spanish) sources, blackwork embroidery came to England with Catherine of Aragon, and was called "Spanish work" for a while.  It's a simple filled running stitch worked in geometric patterns, often representing flowers or plants.  Done well, it's just as pretty on the back as on the front. 

Blackwork is interesting and delicate, and I love the look of the variety of fillings.  I have never done such work before, but I think I'll like it once I get started.  There are historical patterns, as well as modern patterns I can use, to mimic the look of the age. 
Picture
Blackwork Embroidery, by PKM (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Picture
Elizabeth I, Phoenix Portrait, attributed to Nicholas Hilliard [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Pattern upon Pattern
I love the densely textured look of pattern on pattern... every layer being detailed in some way.  Look at the Queen's partlet (sheer linen with blackwork on it), emerging from a heavy brocade or embroidered dress, which itself frames the puffs of a chemise.  There are sheers overlaying opaque fabrics, and opaque fabrics parting to reveal sheers.  Lace, feathers, pearls...

You can see what I mean about the outfits being warm, though!  I wouldn't want to wear this in hot weather! 
Menswear
What can I say... I like doublets.  There's something appealing about wearing a fully closed, armor-like top.  This example, worn by the Queen's favorite Robert Dudley, has small tabs or crenelations at the shoulder and waist, but there are plenty of examples with larger tabs below the waist, flaring out over the poofy breeches. 

As for the poofy breeches, I think they'd make a pretty dorky garment for me, but would be a good inspiration for a skirt. 

In movies set around the time of the Spanish Armada's threat, Queen Elizabeth is seen wearing actual armor, or military-inspired female/male garments.  I wonder if she did in reality. 
Picture
Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester, Anglo-Netherlandish School, Unknown Artist [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
Separates
The layering that was the norm means that I can pick and choose layers which I like, and incorporate them into my regular outfits.  For instance, there was a kind of cape/partlet for women which covered the neck, shoulders, and top of the bosom (with room, of course, for the ruff to show), which I think makes a neat alternative to a shawl or scarf. 

Ruffs
Everyone loves to hate ruffs... those oversized, cumbersome, silly accoutrements that made courtiers look like dogs in cones-- except that I-- I do, actually, like them.  Maybe I don't need a cartwheel ruff, but something larger than a Rococco choker and smaller than the giant wings of the Rainbow Portrait would do fine!  I love the layers of lace and sheer linen, and I want to know how they pleated them like that. 

MY PLAN

Picture
Simplicity 3782: Elizabethan Costume, view B
No plan, per se.  I have a general idea that I want to make several top layers that can be used together, and a modern skirt (not floor length, no farthingale or bum-roll).  I know I want to have lace, black-work, and hues of red and gold with black details.  I have Simplicity 3782, and I like the neckline of the B view.

Working from stash, as I have resolved, I will use some fantastic wool-embroidered canvas as the red base of a doublet or something similar, and gold satin for lining and details. I also have gold ribbon and sequin trim, plenty of white linen-type fabrics for a shirt, fun buttons, beads, et cetera.  Plus, as previously mentioned, I have a ton of white fabric, so no shortage of stuff for underlayers. 

I envision a collage of artsy luxury.  Look for sporadic updates on this project over the next year! 
1 Comment
The Sister
2/13/2018 11:14:01 am

Who doesn't love a doublet? They remind me of the dashing Miles Hendon from "The Prince and the Pauper". *swoon* I can't wait to see your red and gold doublet!

And it strikes me that the model who posed for the Simplicity 3782 pattern resembles Helena Bonham Carter. I like that dress! It will be fun to watch you create these pieces.

Reply



Leave a Reply.

    Karen Roy

    Quilting, dressmaking, and history plied with the needle...

    Categories

    All
    1910's
    Alteration
    Antique
    Dyeing
    Embroidery
    General
    Hand Sewing
    History
    Lacemaking
    Mending
    Menswear
    Millinery
    Modern Elizabethan
    Musing
    Other Sewing
    Philippians 4:8
    Project Diary
    Quilting
    Regency
    Retro
    Self Made Pattern
    Self-made Pattern
    Terminology
    Victorian
    Vintage

    Blogs I Read

    The Dreamstress
    Male Pattern Boldness
    ​
    Lilacs & Lace
    Tom of Holland
    Fit for a Queen
    Line of Selvage
    Mainely Menswear
    Bernadette Banner

    Archives

    January 2023
    December 2022
    November 2022
    October 2022
    September 2022
    August 2022
    October 2021
    September 2021
    August 2021
    July 2021
    June 2021
    May 2021
    April 2021
    August 2020
    June 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    September 2019
    August 2019
    July 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    August 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017

    RSS Feed

Blog

Quilting

Clothing

About

Copyright Karen Roy
​© 2017-2022