The Ahsoka Tano costume continues! After all my pattern work, I cut out the pattern pieces in the red twill. I have just enough
The first thing I work on is the cutout for the front. I interface around it to keep it from stretching on its bias sides, then sew a facing on it, then turn and understitch the facing. I do the same for the back opening.
And here's how I attach the top yoke to the bottom:
BASIC SEAMS AND FIRST FITTING
The basic seams are the front panels together, back panels together, and shoulders, giving me a kind of smock to put on my client. I sew and serge them.
Since the front seam over the bust is quite a sharp turn, I hand-basted it in place first, then sewed it, then serged it, which was slow, but better than trying to shepherd dozens of pins under the machine without breaking anything.
The first fitting enables me to pin the side and back seams to the right level of tightness. I pin while she is standing, then have her sit to make sure there is enough ease over the bottom. As it happens, my 5/8 inch allowance is perfect. While we're at it, I pin the hem up to make sure it's parallel to the ground all the way around. Then I unpin the back a bit at a time, opening the CB from the top and having her try to get out of it. This is how I figure out where to start the zipper so she can easily get in and out of the dress (a few inches below the widest part of the bottom). Finally, we place some bra cups, stolen off a thrift store bra, into the torso of the dress and adjust them to the right place, where I pin them to be tacked in later.
CLOSING THE BACK
NECK AND ARMSCYES
The neck got the same treatment.
Knowing C. will wear tights or leggings under the dress, I want to line it with something slippery, so the friction of dress on tights doesn't make the dress ride up when she walks. But lining fabric and time are not in the budget, so instead I use a satin blanket binding to face the hem, creating three inches of slippery stuff to do the job of a lining or slip. I have to hem it anyway, so this doesn't add to the cost. The blanket binding is a lavender that matches the apron front of the belt, so that's nice.
The accessories to the dress (apron/belt, gaiters) will be another post.
Quilting, dressmaking, and history plied with the needle...
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