I think I need to make a rating system for the clothes I make my sister. The peplum top was a 5 out of 10, since though it fit perfectly, it was a perfect dud in terms of style. Oh well. The pinwheel top was a 9 out of 10, because only one thing needed changing (the elastic at the center back should either be made longer and moved down an inch or removed entirely).
The denim blazer, the subject of today's post, is about a 7 out of 10. It looks good in certain angles, worn open. But the back is too wide and baggy; the upper bust area, near the shoulder, too roomy. Here, my sister models the finished garment so I can analyze it.
The biggest problem is fit. Check out the front view, buttoned and unbuttoned:
See the area just inside the shoulders? That's the same problem as the homemade jacket which I used for a template for my rose chintz bodice. Why are patterns like that? Who has fullness there? I wonder if this roominess is characteristic of home-sewing patterns... the Islander camp shirt also had far too much ease, as did the KwikSew jeans I made a few months back. In this case, I didn't notice it when I pin-fitted the tissue pattern, but tissue is stiff and doesn't show everything. This'll be my lesson about why to make a muslin even after pin-fitting the tissue!
The side view shows the inside-shoulder bagginess looking like excess above the apex of the bust, causing creases under the arm. Sigh. On the up side, the sleeve length is just right! The back view shows that in addition to taking out some length from the CB panel, I should also have taken out some girth! How annoying. Next time I see her I'll probably be adding darts to the lower back.
Part of me wants to ditch the pattern and start anew for the next project, but then I'd be starting from scratch again. I'm better off continuing with this pattern, making changes based on this fit test.
Though I am a fit-snob and see all kinds of problems, it's not unwearable by RTW standards. Here is my sister looking lovely in the finished garment:
Quilting, dressmaking, and history plied with the needle...
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