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Advance 4914 at the Lan Su Chinese Garden!

7/28/2019

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Just pictures, today.  This is what I was doing last Sunday!  My friends and I went to the Lan Su Chinese Garden in downtown Portland, Oregon.  It's enclosed in walls in one city block, but feels quite spacious once you're in it, because of clever design and careful choices throughout.  We picked a good day to go, as the weather was lovely, and a young woman was playing the guzheng, or Chinese zither.  She was really good!  After each song, she explained what it meant.  For instance, she played The Fisherman's Song at Dusk, which is about fishermen coming home in their boats.  As the sun sets, they cheerfully race each other to get home before dark, and the song gets faster, but keeps its rhythm, the pull of the oars faster and faster, the rills of water splashing and swirling. 
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The song reminded me of me and a friend once rushing to get our canoe to shore ahead of a storm on the lake where we lived.  Energetic fun, but with a real deadline. 

And since I was wearing my new dress that day, I got some lovely pictures to share! 

If you want to read about the dress pattern or construction, here are the links:
Advance 4914, view 2, PATTERN
Advance 4914, view 2, CONSTRUCTION

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Advance 4914, view 2, CONSTRUCTION

7/27/2019

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Rainier Cherries. Too expensive to eat, but I can wear them!
Now that I am ready to sew Advance 4914, let me introduce my fabric.  It is a polyester microfiber (more on that after the cut), which feels amazingly soft and has a gorgeous print of Rainier cherries.  The print is busy, but most of the cherries seem to be hanging in one direction, so I think it has a nap. 

The pattern calls for 3.125 yard at 42" wide, but this fabric is 60" wide (a fabric width not available in 1948, the year of this pattern).  I do a bit of math (read: Google it), round up, and buy 2.5 yards.

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Advance 4914, view 2, PATTERN

7/8/2019

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THE PATTERN

Here is a beautiful pattern I've been antsy to try!  Advance 4914, circa 1948, according to the Vintage Patterns Wikia, is a really interesting dress.  Its yoke around the neck and shoulders (front and back) has two neckline options.  It has a fitted yoke at the waistline (front only), and between the top and bottom yokes the loose bodice is gathered.   Below the waist, more gathers in the front, but fitted gores in back.  It closes with a side zipper (under the left arm).
Picture

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"Red Fox Vintage" Dress - wearable muslin

3/18/2019

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Last week I told how I rubbed off a pattern from a vintage rayon dress I found at Red Fox Vintage store in Woodstock, Portland.  The rub-off is a collection of muslin pieces, which doesn't include seam allowances but does show all the seamlines and the places where they intersect.  It's the start of a pattern! 

Today I'll show you some more of the process.  I picked two fabrics to test the garment, and used the rub-off pieces as pattern pieces, adding seam allowances as I cut. 
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"Red Fox Vintage" Dress - pattern rub-off

3/14/2019

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I'm calling this project my "Red Fox Vintage" dress because I bought the original dress at Red Fox Vintage in Woodstock, Portland.  I tried it on because I was intrigued by the collar, which has two long lapels that criss-cross in front and are held by a buttoned-down tab.  I found it fit perfectly, and I loved the silhouette (late forties, early fifties is my guess), but not the color.  Still, I brought it home, because it fit my back in a way that I have a lot of trouble getting patterns to fit my back.  (I'm high-waisted with a slightly forward shoulder). 

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Glamor Gown - A friend's first project

3/11/2019

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My friend Eryn (remember her?) learns in much the same way I do: starting with a vision beyond her ability to achieve, then jumping in way over her head, learning along the way, and achieving something she's proud of even if it's not the vision she started with.  And, like me, she is a woman who speaks with her clothes, so it's no surprise if the dress options at the store failed to impress her this year when she wanted a gown for a Christmas charity event.
She came to me with a vision: a gown with old Hollywood glamor, with batwing sleeves, V-neck front and back, and a fitted torso.  I said I'd help, but she would do the work, and our deal was struck! 

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A question of labels

1/23/2019

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The more vintage clothes I see, the more curious I get about the labeling practices of our grandmothers' generation.  Nowadays, a ready-to-wear garment usually has two labels: a brand tag that says who was responsible for its production (GAP, Lord & Taylor, or the like), and a care tag that says what it's made of and how to launder it.  Sometimes they're clustered together; other times the maker is in the back neck and the care tag is in the side seam. 

Vintage clothes, however, often have more tags, and in different places.  I'll show you two examples from my own wardrobe. 

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Plastron on a Whim

12/6/2018

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In which I make a Victorian-inspired plastron or dickie... and end up looking like I work at Grace Brothers!
(Sometimes when I title my posts I amuse myself wondering what Google searches will yield these confusing word combos, and what the searchers will think...)

A "plastron" is a chest covering.  If you're a turtle, it's your shell.  If you're a fencer, it's your padded vest.  If you're a Victorian era lady, it's a lacy faux-front that you tie around your neck to change up the look of your dress.  And if you're me... well.  Read on to see what I came up with! 

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Bed Jacket: From the Fifties to the Seventies

9/20/2018

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Here's how I typically layer up when I'm cold!
Remember this picture?  Besides my nightcap, I'm wearing a yellow quilted bed jacket given to me by a friend.  Bed jackets used to be a thing, before central heating became the norm, and they are really useful for lounging around if, like me, you're chronically chilly!  Mine is probably from the fifties or sixties.  It's made of some sort of loud synthetic (loud as in it scratches and rustles against itself like taffeta or cheap acetate).  It being older than me to start with, it didn't stand up to more than two years of my use and occasional washing; the batting went flat and various spots wore away and shredded.  

So I decide to take a pattern from it and make new!

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A New Petticoat

5/7/2018

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One day I looked at my undergarments and said to myself, "Self," says I, "I need a new petticoat...!"  

I have several serviceable slips, one crinoline, and a vintage nylon petticoat, already.  The vintage one is a joy to wear, a soft apricot color with a delightful froth of ruffles around my knees, but it's also torn and mended in many places, and is too long for a lot of my skirts.  (Luckily, I know how to make it work.)  The crinoline does its job, but without the lovely ruffles and softness I like.  What's needed is something like the vintage one, but shorter, to wear with my shorter skirts.  And I do have a stash that needs busting! 

So I dig around in my whites and pull out some white sheer curtain fabric, white lace from a wedding gown skirt, and white nylon tricot from an old nightgown. 
Picture

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    Karen Roy

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